There is no moment during the day, which by zapping with the remote control does not get caught up in some TV broadcast where everyone spignattano cheerfully in the kitchen. One of the most followed programs is that sort of competition between 4 restaurants where the competitors are judged based on location, menu, service, and account. Could we at Moto-OnTheRoad be outdone? So here are 4 restaurants in Tuscany, near Florence or a little further on, also chosen according to the road to get there. On the other hand, as the essay says: “The bike is the best way to move from one table to another”.
Antica Macelleria Cecchini – Panzano in Chianti
And one can only begin with the legendary Dario Cecchini, the butcher-poet-philosopher and even a bit paraculo, mad as a horse, a marketing genius who on the day that the events of the mad cow could bring his business to its knees, yes he invented the funeral of the steak to turn the negative moment into an opportunity, and from there it became a reference point for carnivores everywhere.
We are right in Chiantishire, in Panzano you can get there by using tires on the SR222 Chiantigiana, or on the SS2 Cassia, or from countless white roads, the Eroica passes by, immersed in the most beautiful landscape in the world. Impossible not to find it, the crowd of people outside the butcher shop in via XX Luglio is permanent. As soon as you enter you are greeted with a glass of red, and you can serve at will with the fettunta, finocchiona-based appetizers and a lard cream that is pure lust. Then you can choose between various fixed price menu options, MacDario (quick lunch only on weekdays, even without a reservation), Solo Ciccia (meat at will but not steak) or steak Workshop (six different cuts and courses). In any case, you can eat in banquets in common tables, one can take wine from home, and it is not uncommon to be seated next to characters who have arrived there from all over the world. Last time I shared the bread with Henry Winkler “Fonzie”, to say.
In addition to the steak (which is cooked on the grill, and the subsequent presentation of the staff is worth the trip) to report the “Camerino in Culo”, delicate meat tartare, and the pepper mustard to accompany the dishes.
Osteria Nandone – Loc. Omomorto
Whether you are returning from a few practice sessions at the Mugello racetrack, or that you want to retrace the track from the old road circuit, leaving Scarperia and climbing towards the Giogo pass, pay attention to the braking in Omomorto, which if you arrive long entrances directly in the Antica Osteria Nardone. Once upon a time, you could decide to stop by improvising at the moment, now the good Paolo puts you at the table only if you have booked a few months in advance (in the weekdays a couple of weeks should be enough). The restaurant is small and rustic, the table awaits you already laden with delicacies that alone deserve the Oscar (roasted and crispy bacon to scream ), then you will be presented with its majesty the steak.”It’s carpaccio under four fingers!” Is the motto. Cooked on the grill directly in the dining room, it will be served on a sprinkling of coarse salt and slightly moistened with oil. Very tender you can cut it easily … with a spoon! Seeing is believing.
Acqua Cheta Restaurant – San Benedetto in Alpe
We remain on Apennine passes that have made and make history, and from Pontassieve we head towards La Rufina, Dicomano (watch out for speed cameras!) And from there we begin to climb over San Godenzo along the Via Forlivese, otherwise called SS67, better known as the “ mythical street of the Muraglione ”, a veritable gymnasium along which the bones were made by Reggiani in Dovizioso passing through Capirossi. But don’t exaggerate, you don’t have to prove anything to anyone, and then the aim is not to challenge the local “postmen”, but to arrive beautiful and hungry in San Benedetto in Alpe to put your legs under the table of the Acquacheta restaurant. If it is time for porcini mushrooms go for tagliatelle and fried mushrooms, and keep in mind that the portions are, let’s say, very generous; order sparingly otherwise you risk filling up immediately.
Then to dispose of it you will have two options: take the road that goes from there to Marradi and / or Palazzuolo Sul Senio, and then still curves and counter-curves to get drunk, or better yet, take the beautiful path in the woods on foot , challenging especially in the warm months , which in a couple of hours will take you to the Acqua Cheta waterfall (Dante talks about it in the 16th century of the Inferno) and the ruins of the ancient monastery of San Benedetto. If you are tired on your return, keep in mind that the property also offers clean and comfortable rooms.
Trattoria da Filetto – Stia
Always informative and fun to go in search of famous film locations, so here we are in the beautiful Piazza Bernardo Tanucci in the center of Stia, made famous by the scenes of “Il Cyclone”, the only unforgettable film (the others are copies) by Leonardo Pieraccioni. You can always get there from the SS67 taking the Londa-Stia, circuiting nothing bad that goes over the Croce ai Mori pass, or from the busy Consuma pass, perhaps after a visit to Romena’s castle or Poppi’s. And if you want you can wander up to the Hermitage of Camaldoli, or Chiusi della Verna, or Caprese Michelangelo, the birthplace of Buonarroti.
An outdoor veranda, an environment of other times inside, especially the shop adjacent to the restaurant, essential service, and genuine menu. The pappardelle with wild boar sauce is a mystical experience, as well as potato ravioli with tomato sauce.
If you do not find a place there, know that a few hundred meters along the road that runs along the sports field, there is another cousin restaurant of this, in the sense that cousins are the owners, surrounded by greenery: the Rana da Filetto, be careful not to get confused if you book. Specialty cooked water (a soup with legumes) and stewed venison, perhaps with a few slices of toasted bread and rubbed with garlic.
But the beautiful thing is out there: we are on the banks of the newly born Arno, the source can be reached via a nearby path, and it is still one of those places where the water is clean and forms a perfectly swimmable loop. In short, bring your swimsuit and take a dip! Maybe not after lunch, because as stated in a specific indication, the temperature is not really that of a thermal spring.